June 21, 2002
By SCOTT BRAND/The (Soo) Evening News
LUCE COUNTY -- Utilizing one of the longest and oldest 24-inch gauge lines in the United States, and a pair of large riverboats, the owners and operators of the Toonerville Trolley are celebrating their 75th year of operation.
Named for its location at the junction of the Soo Branch and the St. Ignace Branch of the old Dutch, South Shore and Atlantic Railroad, Soo Junction likely would have gone the way of many other small stops along the line -- Lencel, McPhee, Period, Edjon, Sage, and Natpo -- were it not for a small rail line connecting it to Hunter's Mill on the bank of the Tahquamenon River.
"The track was put in for my great-grandfather, Robert Hunter, back in 1910," said Captain Kris Stewart, manager of the Toonerville Trolley. Playing a major part in the Upper Peninsula's logging history, massive white pines were floated to the lumber camp and dimensional saw mill at Hunter's Mill where they were converted into dimensional lumber and shipped by rail.
With the timber gone, Great-Grandpa Hunter and Joseph Beach formed a partnership back in 1927 to reverse the flow of traffic, so-to-speak. Instead of hauling wood from the river, the pair began working together to haul people to the river where they boarded the "Betty B" for the downriver trip to the Upper Tahquamenon Falls.
The partnership lasted until 1981, when Kris' family bought out the Beaches and took over both the rail and water legs of the journey. Operating on a 100-ton inland license issued by the Michigan Department of Natural Resources for more than two decades, Stewart has seen many different things.
"It's different every day, it's not like working in the factory," said Stewart while piloting the Hiawatha on the Tahquamenon River. "You might run 100 trips without any trouble and the next trip... Bam."
Hidden logs, shallow waters, heavy winds and lightning are just some of the memorable events associated with the riverboat operation. Others include the far more frequent encounters with black bears, white-tailed deer, moose, eagles, sandhill cranes and a host of other critters.
Admitting the 6 1/2-hour trip is somewhat of a dinosaur in this pre-packaged, microwave-oven world, Stewart -- who serves as an on-board ornithologist, forester and biologist while manning the helm of the Hiawatha -- says he has had to alter his way of doing things over the years.
"We are trying to find our market niche for the eco-tourist," he explained. "The people we see want to know more about the trees, wildlife and flowers."
"When I started 21 years ago people would come up and ask, 'What kind of bush is this?' and I'd just look at them and say, 'Hell, I don't know,'" he says with a laugh.
Today, Stewart can talk for hours about a wide range of diverse topics. Did you know the belted kingfisher sports a webbed foot? Stewart does. Care to know what plants make the best tea from the boggy grounds leading into Hunter's Mill? Stewart has your answer. Or maybe the hunting style of various hawks seen up and down the riverbanks sparks your interest. Again, Stewart is ready at the microphone with a knowledgeable and concise description.
At the end of the 21-mile river trip, travelers are invited on a 3,600 foot hike through a wooded nature trail for a spectacular view of the Tahquamenon Falls. The view is not from the traditional vantage point enjoyed by those accessing the falls from the state-run park, as the Hiawatha docks on the other side of the river. Once travelers have completed the hike, its back aboard the boat for the return trip. Food, beverages and restrooms are available with Stewart promising the "best burgers on the river," for those looking for a meal.
Stewart credits his wife, Dixie, for helping him manage the operation -- calling her the bookkeeper, tour director, ticket agent and gift shop manager. Clarence Koontz serves as the train's engineer most days, while Gary Sevarns is also a captain and performs mechanic work to keep all the machinery operating. Deck-hands, food preparation employees and gift shop workers round out the payroll.
Likening the Toonerville Trolley to a modern-day farm, Stewart says the weather plays a critical roll in his annual success.
"We have a 113 day season," he said. Bad weather and bugs can conspire to change people's minds while still at Soo Junction with the fear of rain or mosquito bites sending a traveling family to their next destination without ever boarding. Other difficulties can arise in the form of industrious beavers flooding the railroad tracks, gasoline at $2 a gallon, bureaucratic red tape and a host of other things outside Stewart's control.
"It's a tricky business," he concluded.